We’ve all got them. Those little – or big – brown patches that punctuate our skin and define our arms, our legs and even that little ‘beauty’ spot above our lips (Cindy, Marilyn, even Enrique). But do we know anything about them, the danger they pose and how we can protect them? No. So pull up a chair and take note with our comprehensive guide to everything mole-related.
“A mole is a cluster of skin pigment cells called melanocytes,” says dermatologist and Medical Director of Eudelo (European Dermatology London) Dr Stefanie Williams. “Usually, these melanocytes are distributed evenly in the skin but when they group together, a mole is formed.” Some we have from the day we are born but most of them develop in the years before we reach 40, after that and it is rare. They have a life of their own and can really change – appear, disappear, darken or lighten – at any time but particularly during periods of hormonal change, like pregnancy. Other factors like genetic predisposition, fairness of skin and exposure to sunlight also have a part to play in the number you have.
The fact that they vary drastically in size, shape and dimension makes it very easy to mistake them for freckles and vice versa; those moles that lay completely flat on the skin are called ‘junctional’ moles and can look very much like a freckle. However, freckles are great friends with the sun and tend only to show their faces when it’s shining: “They’re harmless,” says Williams, “but they can be a sign of chronic sun damage, especially in adults, so it’s important to also get them seen to by a dermatologist.”
Changes to your existing moles – or the growth of new ones – can be an indication of melanoma which is the deadliest form of skin cancer. And, it’s on the rise, with a recent study by Cancer Research UK showing a 63 percent increase in those under 55 being diagnosed in the last twenty years and 2500 people dying every year in the UK due to melanoma-related illnesses.
Those who are most at risk are those with fair skin or who have a lot of moles. The definition of ‘a lot of moles’ is 50 or more, and if you have 100 or more you are 5 times more likely to form a malignant melanoma. Similarly, if you’ve spent long periods of time in the sun or have often been burnt especially as a child, you’re at greater risk. In fact, statistics show that getting sunburnt just once every two years triples your chance of developing melanoma.
But it’s not all doom and gloom. Findings show that if caught early, 90% of people diagnosed with stage 1 melanoma are alive 5 years later, so it’s all about prevention, keeping an eye out for any changes within the skin and being vigilant about applying sun cream. Moles don’t stay exactly the same their whole mole lives; just like the rest of your body, they can melt into other shapes, colours or forms and if they change, it doesn’t necessarily mean you have skin cancer. However, when they change over a very short period of time, and especially if you have some of the above risk factors, you should go and see your GP or, even better, a dermatologist.
“The easiest way to remember the signs and symptoms that indicate a melanoma is by following the ABCDE alphabet rule,” says Williams, and look for any other skin lesions, like scaly patches or scabs that won’t budge as these can also be warning signs. It goes as follows:
A symmetry – Do the two halves of the mole differ in shape?
B order – Are the edges of the mole irregular or blurred? Do the outside edges of the mole show notches or look ‘ragged’?
C olour – Is the colour uneven, patchy or is the mole showing different shades? For example, you may see different shades of black, brown and pink
D iameter – Is the lesion more than 5mm in diameter? Or has it changed size or become raised?
E volution – Has your mole changed in any way? Has it, for example, changed in size, in shape or in colour? Or has it become itchy or is bleeding or oozing?
It’s important to remember that skin cancer can appear at any time, whether you’ve recently been exposed to the sun or not. For complete peace of mind, Williams recommends an annual routine mole check, especially as it can be difficult to keep track of the moles on your body yourself; you can’t see obvious areas like the back, let alone inspect the moles on them. There are also other areas you’d likely never consider, including the scalp, ears, eyes and even under the finger and toenails. “Melanomas don’t only form on areas you can see,” warns Williams, so seeing a professional really helps.
The best place to get them checked is at a dermatologist’s clinic as they know exactly what to look for, are thorough, and highly trained to spot abnormalities. They use a dermatoscope, a special magnifying lamp with a cross-polarised light, to inspect each mole. This contraption magnifies the mole to such a level that its exact pigment structure can be inspected and potential irregularities can be identified.
There are also other mole checking services which can be used to keep track of skin’s various marks and moles. One of the best is the British Skin Foundation-backed Cadogan Clinic in London which is led by dermatology consultants. Their excellent Mole Package is great for those who want an all-bases-covered check up. You have a brief visual assessment with a consultant who will inspect any unusual looking moles, and then each one is comprehensively ‘mapped’ with a camera. Having them mapped is great for future reference and reminds you of areas that need to be kept an eye on.
Be warned that there are many high street clinics that offer a similar (but not nearly as good) service. These rely solely on cameras which can’t offer the meticulousness or reliability of a face-to-face meeting with a dermatologist. “Cameras are a poor replacement for a proper examination and can lead to mistakes being made,” agrees Williams. And while photographs are a great way to keep check on the number and position of moles, it’s important that a dermatologist looks at the mole in person to check if it’s healthy or not.
For anyone who’s kind of panicking now, relax. Keeping safe in the sun – and remembering that there’s always fake tan – is boring but key to healthy skin. Here are the rules to follow:
Wear an SPF of at least 30 every day, 50 if you’re especially pale. Make it easy for yourself by using a tinted SPF like Sarah Chapman’s Skin Insurance or Sisley’s Tinted Sunscreen Cream on your face – both make your skin look amazing while providing it with the UVA and UVB protection it needs. For body, try Ambre Solaire UV Sport Sun Protection Mist SPF50 or Shiseido’s Urban Environment UV Protection Cream SPF30. Make sure to cover even the most obscure places like between fingers, behind ears, around eyes and on lips.
Replace your sunscreen regularly and keep note on the expiry dates, otherwise it could be doing sweet F.A.
Try and avoid the sun between 11 – 3pm each day when UV radiation levels are at their highest. If you’ve got to be, try and wear a hat, cover up or stay in the shade.
Don’t use sun beds – they can encourage skin cancer and make skin look leathery as it ages
Wear sunglasses to protect the delicate area around eyes.
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